Wednesday, March 21, 2012

Chocolate Review: Green & Black's 34% Milk Toffee

By Benjamin Skipper

I picked up Green & Black's milk chocolate with toffee while I was out buying a smorgasbord of chocolate one day, and was attracted to it since toffee is one of my developing confectionery interests. In its most simple form it is but sugar, butter, and salt, so it's quite nearly a Paleo treat. That a toffee variety is carried by such as good brand as G&B's only tempts me more.

While still a solidly delicious milk chocolate, it misses its aim. The butter flavor of the toffee comes off as way too sweet and not at all salty enough, though the luscious caramel overtones with nutty attributes make up for it, finishing on a very sugary note without being unpleasantly intense. I was entertained by the nearly taffy-like texture of the bar as it bent and pulled before breaking apart, and in the mouth is has that delightful fatty texture and viscous melt known of good milk chocolates, with a touch of crispness from the toffee. It smells slightly pungent, but not offensively so, and has dominating traits of milk, nuts, and caramel. I don't know why I kept sensing nuts, but I did. Aesthetically the bar has a light, kind of pinkish brown with a healthy glow, the inner gradient hiding bits of butter colored jewels.

The chocolate itself was perfect, but it overwhelms the toffee it carries, not to neglect the toffee itself isn't that good. I could recommend this as a great milk chocolate with a nice crisp to it, but not for its toffee. Also, note that glucose syrup that is used in the toffee is wheat derived, so it may possibly not be gluten-free.

Given a choice I'd still stick with Endangered Species' 72% Coexist toffee pieces as my toffee-chocolate of choice. The chocolate may be lesser in amount, but it's potent enough to hold its own in the complex of flavors, and the thickness of the toffee chunks delivers fully on the butter and salt traits that you'd crave.

I thoroughly enjoyed this G&B's treat, but it's more of a plain milk chocolate given the strength of its cocoa. If you want your milk chocolate to have some crisp texture to it then go for it, but for plain milk chocolate or chocolate toffee I'd suggest looking elsewhere.

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